Hand planes are among the most satisfying tools in a woodworker's kit.
There's nothing quite like the sound of a well-tuned plane taking a gossamer-thin shaving from a piece of timber.
But walk into any tool shop — or browse online — and you'll find a bewildering array of plane types, sizes and numbers.
What's the difference between a No. 3 and a No. 4? Do you need a jack plane or a block plane? And where do you even start?
This guide cuts through the confusion and explains the main types of hand plane, what each one does, and which to buy first. If you're just starting out, also see our Best Hand Planes for Beginners: A Buyer's Guide and our comparison of Block Plane vs. Bench Plane.
How Hand Planes Are Numbered
Most bench planes follow the Stanley numbering system, which runs from No. 1 (tiny, rarely used) to No. 8 (very large). The higher the number, the longer the plane. Length matters because longer planes bridge over low spots in timber and produce flatter surfaces, while shorter planes follow the contours of the wood more closely.
Types of Hand Plane
Block Plane (No. 60½, No. 9½, No. 102)
The smallest and most versatile plane in most workshops. Block planes are designed for one-handed use and are ideal for trimming end grain, chamfering edges, fitting joints and general light work.
The low-angle versions (like the No. 60½) are particularly effective on end grain.
Best for: end grain trimming, chamfers, fitting joints, one-handed work
Good first plane: yes — compact, affordable and immediately useful
Smoothing Plane (No. 3, No. 4)
The smoothing plane is the finishing plane — used last to bring a surface to a fine, polished finish ready for finishing. The No. 4 is the most popular size and the one most woodworkers reach for first. The No. 3 is slightly smaller and lighter, good for smaller work.
Best for: final surface preparation, smoothing after sawing or thicknessing
Good first plane: yes — the No. 4 is the classic starting point for most woodworkers
Jack Plane (No. 5)
Longer than a smoothing plane, the jack plane is the workhorse of the bench. It's used for initial stock preparation — flattening rough timber, removing saw marks and getting surfaces approximately flat before finishing with a smoother. The name comes from "jack of all trades."
Best for: initial stock preparation, flattening rough timber, removing high spots
Good first plane: yes — if you work with rough-sawn timber
Fore Plane (No. 6)
Between the jack and the jointer in length, the fore plane is less commonly seen today but useful for flattening wider boards and longer surfaces. The Kunz No. 6 with corrugated sole reduces friction on long cuts.
Best for: flattening wide boards, intermediate stock preparation
Jointer Plane (No. 7, No. 8)
The longest bench plane, used for truing up long edges for glue joints and flattening large panels. The length means it bridges over low spots and produces a truly flat, straight edge.
Best for: edge jointing, flattening large panels, long grain work
Rebate Plane (No. 10, No. 78 Duplex)
Designed specifically for cutting rebates (also called rabbets) — a stepped recess along the edge of a board. The blade extends to the full width of the plane, allowing it to cut right into the corner of the rebate.
The Stanley No. 78 Duplex is a classic design that can also be used as a moving fillister.
Best for: cutting rebates, housing joints, stepped edges
Shoulder Plane
A precision plane used for trimming the shoulders and cheeks of tenons and other joints to achieve a perfect fit. The blade runs the full width of the body, allowing it to cut right into corners.
Best for: fitting tenons, trimming joint shoulders, precision fitting
Trim Plane
A compact, lightweight plane designed for single-handed operation. Ideal for trimming laminate edges, end grain and detail work where a larger plane would be unwieldy.
Best for: laminate trimming, detail work, one-handed trimming tasks
Spokeshave
Strictly speaking not a plane, but closely related. A spokeshave is used for shaping and smoothing curved surfaces — chair legs, tool handles, bows and any curved work. Available in flat-soled (for convex curves) and round-soled (for concave curves) versions.
Best for: shaping curved surfaces, chair making, tool handles
Which Plane Should You Buy First?
For most beginners, the answer is a No. 4 smoothing plane or a block plane — ideally both. See our detailed Block Plane vs. Bench Plane comparison to help you decide.
The No. 4 is the most versatile bench plane and will handle the majority of surface preparation and finishing tasks. A block plane adds the ability to trim end grain and work one-handed. Together, these two planes will cover most of what you need as a beginner.
If you're working primarily with rough-sawn timber, add a No. 5 jack plane to your kit early on.
What to Look for When Buying a Hand Plane
Sole flatness — the sole (bottom) of the plane must be flat for it to work properly. Quality planes from established brands are machined flat from the factory; cheaper planes may need lapping before use.
Blade steel — a good blade holds its edge longer and is easier to sharpen. Look for high carbon steel or A2 tool steel blades.
Frog and adjuster quality — the frog is the casting that holds the blade at the correct angle. A well-fitted frog with smooth adjusters makes setting up and using the plane much more pleasant.
Brand — for reliable quality, Irwin Record, Stanley, Spear & Jackson, Faithfull and Kunz all offer well-regarded planes at different price points.
Recommended Planes from Cherry Tree Tools
- Spear & Jackson No. 4 Smoothing Plane — a great all-round first plane, well-made and ready to use
- Spear & Jackson No. 5 Jack Plane — the workhorse for stock preparation
- Irwin Record No. 4 Plane — a trusted classic with a fully adjustable 50mm cutter
- Irwin Record No. 60½ Block Plane — low angle, ideal for end grain and trimming
- Stanley No. 102 Low Angle Block Plane — compact and precise for one-handed work
- Stanley Bailey Sweetheart No. 4 — premium quality for those who want the best
- Kunz No. 6 Fore Plane — corrugated sole for smooth, efficient stock preparation
- Faithfull No. 10 Rebate Plane — for accurate rebates and housing joints
- Stanley Duplex Rebate Plane No. 078 — a classic design for rebating and fillister work
A Note on Setting Up and Sharpening
Even a quality plane straight from the box will benefit from a few minutes of setup — checking the blade is sharp, the cap iron is properly seated, and the mouth opening is adjusted for the type of cut you're making. Read our step-by-step guide on How to Sharpen a Hand Plane Iron, and our Hand Plane Maintenance guide to keep it performing at its best.
Conclusion
Hand planes reward patience and practice. Start with a No. 4 smoothing plane and a block plane, learn to set them up and sharpen them well, and you'll have tools that will last a lifetime and transform the quality of your woodworking.
Browse our full range of planes and spokeshaves at Cherry Tree Tools.